How to spend
48 hours in Lima, Peru
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| Lima's Plaza Mayor. Photo Matthew Barker |
As with many capital cities, Lima can be an
overwhelming, confusing and intimidating metropolis. As the transport hub
of Peru, it is a city that is all but impossible to avoid, and many
travelers are confronted with the choice of either skipping Lima’s barely
organized chaos and getting out of town as fast as possible, or spend some time
trying to penetrate the sprawling capital.
The answer is simple: don’t skip Lima. Peru’s culture, government, history, and legendary gastronomy all come together in the city that lines the bluffs along the Pacific Ocean. You could spend years exploring Lima’s crevices, but here’s how to do it in 48 hours.
Parque Kennedy
If your flight has arrived on Friday night, the long cab right
from the airport has probably left you feeling exhausted, but curious. Grab a
hotel in Miraflores. There are all different price ranges in the area, but the
closer you are to Parque Kennedy, the more lively the local.
Drop your things and hunt down a low-key dinner. Around Calle de
las Pizzas on Parque Kennedy does not serve up the greatest dishes, but it is a
good place for a quick and easy bite and some fabulous people-watching. Try
Peru’s famous pisco sour, a brandy made from grapes. Careful though- it sneaks
up on you quickly and just two can leave you wobbling as you stand up. If
you’re a party animal, explore the lively (albeit overpriced) bars. If not,
you’re not missing much- get some sleep for the next day.
Saturday morning begins early for adventure junkies. The coastline
along Lima is renowned for its surf. Head down to the beach for a lesson at
around 6AM- don’t forget to rent a wetsuit! Even if surfing isn’t for you,
watching the locals shred the waves before work is a sight in itself. Get back
to your hotel for breakfast and a quick shower before the busy day begins.
Barranco
From your hotel in Miraflores grab a cab to Barranco, and ask to
be let out at the Bajada de Baños. Barranco is Lima’s Bohemian arts district,
and is home to decadent homes that are enough to make anyone want to buy one of
those fixer-uppers. The Bajada is a small walkway that leads down to the ocean.
With restaurants and homes built into the cut-out cliffs, the architectural
beauty of the walk will astound you.
Head all the way down and cross the pedestrian bridge for another
glimpse of the beach. If your appetite is up, stop by one of the restaurants
for a snack. Otherwise, continue onto the main square in Barranco for a better
close-up of the old homes that coat the sidewalks.
After taking in Barranco, take a cab to Museo Larco. The museum is
housed in an 18th Century museum, and is one of the largest
private collections of Peruvian artifacts from a wide span of cultures.
However, the museum is perhaps better known for its interesting collection of
erotic artifacts- housed in a separate building in case you want to keep your
trip family-friendly.
Plaza Mayor
Following Museo Larco, take one more ride over to Plaza Mayor.
Plaza Mayor is Lima’s true downtown and home to its government buildings. The
detailed architecture is stunning, but the best history lies in the Convento de
San Francisco. A still-running monastery, it is also the home to the Catacombs
that house 25,000 skeletons dating back over three hundred years. English tours
are available, and provide ample time to view the neatly piled bones below.
Another highlight is Peruvian artist Diego de la Puentes’ take on the Last
Supper- complete with cuy (guinea pig) as the central plate.
Head back to Miraflores to change for dinner. Lima’s gastronomy is
unparalleled and it is difficult to go wrong. Many Peruvians will point you in
the direction of restaurants owned by one of their most famous chefs: Gaston
Acurio. Panchita and Astrid y Gaston are two favorites. If you can move
after one of his meals, head back to Barranco to check out what is known as
Lima’s best of nightlife.
Sunday Morning
On Sunday morning you might need to take it slow, so walk down to
Larcomar to explore the shopping center that seems precariously built into the
bluffs. Take a walk down the Malecón, a path leading along the hills above the
coast, to the Parque del Amor. See the unique statue, but also to ask about
parasailing. Though the trip is short, the expansive view of Lima and the ocean
are well worth it. Grab lunch in Larcomar before heading in taxi to the Museo
de la Nación for a comprehensive overview of Peru’s history and culture.
Following the museum, head over to the Circuito Mágico del Agua.
This new park opens at dusk and provides a stunning collection of fountains
that light up, dance, and create a million ways to play. If it is warm, enjoy
playing in the water, but cooler nights are just as enthralling. Though you may
not want to leave, head back to Parque Kennedy to see if any artisans have set
up shop. After a long day, dinner is warranted. Brujas de Cachiche is another
favorite, but it is hard to go wrong in Lima. After dinner, get your
rest. This was only the 48 hours of your trip.
Lima is not to be missed. Often capital cities hide their beauty,
but knowing where to look will provide a stunning overview of Peru for
everything it is: culture, art, food, adventure, and wonderful people.
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